Simple Black Dress

Since I've been working with stretch fabrics recently, I'm planning to add one more stretch project --- this cute dress from the January 2009 issue of Burda.

Image from www.burdafashion.com.

I love the sleeve details and the simplicity of the design --- I think it will turn out well in my black ponte knit fabric. I may add some trim to the neckline and sleeve hems, or maybe even a faux collar to the neckline. Fun!

Writing Knit Patterns

I've been in a creative void these last few days, as I've been spending my free time writing out knit patterns, a very technical task, rather than sketching or creating. I'm hoping to find some time this weekend for some sewing (a sky blue silk dupioni and a black ponte knit are waiting for me) or knitting (a purple cabled vest for my mom is in its nascent stages).

The pattern writing process is an interesting one. It is the technical part of the overall design process, and while it can be tedious, the challenge of figuring out how to take an idea or a sketch and turn it into an actual garment can be somewhat addictive. Of all the fashion and sewing classes I've taken, I've always loved the pattern making and draping classes --- guess it is that technical/scientific side of me!

Beginning with an idea, I sketch out variations until I come up with something that I really like. Often, I already have a specific type of yarn in mind, while other times, I'll go through my stash or visit my LYS to find yarn that will work for the design. I'll also think about stitch patterns and any embellishments. For determining construction and fit, I use graph paper to hand-draw a preliminary schematic of what each piece will look like --- back, front, sleeves and any additional details. I compare the measurements with knitting standards and other resources, and make tweaks where needed.





I spend a lot of time thinking about the design, analyzing each aspect of it and making changes --- over and over. It can get somewhat obsessive after a while. I always make swatches that include different stitch patterns so I can see how they look in the yarn as well as check gauge. I write a rough draft of the pattern in one size, and using that, knit a test garment. I always revise the pattern as I work, and I check measurements carefully during the knitting process.

The final step is refining the pattern --- incorporating any changes made during the knitting process; grading the pattern (calculating measurements for different sizes); calculating yarn amounts; drawing stitch charts and schematics; and editing the pattern for accuracy, consistency and flow. Whew!

Here's the final garment (image on bottom courtesy of Soho Publishing).

How Cool are These Glasses?

Image from www.wsj.com.

These fuzzy green glasses with tiny people hanging out on the frame are just too cool! Here's a photo of them on a model.

"If you see somebody wearing something like that, you feel funny and you feel happy" --- quoted from the president of Tiny Dinousaur, the Japanese company that presented these cool frames on the runway at Japan Fashion Week in NY. He also stated that they were a "whimsical metaphor for seeing into another, more peaceful world."

I'll take a pair!

Paris Haute Couture

Here's a slideshow of some designs from the Paris Spring/Summer Haute Couture shows, which end today. The collection by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel garnered a lot of attention --- inspired by white paper, the gowns were made of white cotton decorated with paper cutouts and the hats were gorgeous finishing touches. This is what makes haute couture so amazing --- the details, craftsmanship, artistry --- and above all, the creation of pure fantasy.

Image from http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/01/27/cut-paste/.

Lotta Jansdotter

A friend of mine showed me this amazing book about Lotta Jansdotter, a designer best known for her beautiful screen-printed designs inspired by nature.

The book includes gorgeous photos of her designs and goods, but also provides readers a snapshot into her life --- from favorite recipes to travel reports from around the world. This book is in Japanese, but there are several English-language books that focus on specific techniques, such as sewing and printing.

Images from www.jansdotter.com.

Wrap Top - Completed

After a few challenges, I finished the Wrap Top this weekend.



It was an easy design, with just five pattern pieces and uncomplicated sewing. Just a couple of notes:

1. Instead of inserting elastic across the entire width of the attached cami, I left a couple of inches on both ends elastic-free, which was recommended by Pattern Review users to ensure a comfortable fit. It worked well.

2. I sewed the sleeves in flat rather than setting them in, easing the cap as I went along. This was a lot easier than setting in the sleeve, but the tricky part was making sure the notches were aligned all around so the sleeve fullness was evenly distributed along the armscye.

Overall, I really like the style of this top and plan to make others in different stretch fabrics. I think it would be cute to wear it without wrapping around the waist --- just shortening the ends and tying them in front --- which I think may flatter more body types.

Wrap Top - A Comedy of Errors

A new version of the wrap top that turned out so beautifully in my inexpensive tester fabric (black knit from Joann's) has been a challenge for me this week. The project tested my patience levels, but I didn't go over the edge because the fabric is so wonderful --- I kept persevering to somehow make it all work.

The first error was my choice of stretch stitch. I chose one that is decorative (rounded zig zags), which worked fine when I tested it on scrap fabric. However, when I began to sew the long neckline edges, the fabric pulled in spots, creating a messy edge. The stitch is composed of multiple little stitches that create the zig zags, so there was no way to rip it without tearing my beautiful fabric. I don't know why I chose that silly stitch! I could not salvage the pieces, so I recut the back and fronts.

I barely had enough fabric to recut the pieces. Then I realized that I cut two fronts that were facing the same way! I had to cut from a single layer of fabric, and realized I forgot to flip the pattern over to cut the second piece. I almost died. Yet another silly mistake. I had to cobble together two pieces of fabric to recut the front piece, but luckily the joining seam isn't noticeable in the finished top.

Finally, mid-way through re-sewing the top, I noticed that my needle was set at far left rather than standard center, which meant that some of my seams were wider than my usual 0.5 inches!

Well, after all this, the top fits (I'll post a photo later) and the fabric really is beautiful, but I'm glad it's over at this point. Just a bunch of silly errors. Now, instead of having an extra piece of that wonderful fabric to make something else, I'm left with a pile of oddball scraps. If anyone has suggestions on what to do with a mass of miscellaneous pieces of stretch silk, all ideas are welcome!

Japanese Sewing Magazines

Growing up, my mom's Japanese fashion magazines often included inserts with sewing and knitting patterns. I've been enamored of crafting since I was very young, so I accumulated quite a few of these inserts as well as other Japanese magazines and books. Unfortunately, I've lost all of my sewing ones --- perhaps they are stashed somewhere at my parents' house...

I've seen a lot of references recently to a Japanese sewing magazine called "Mrs. Stylebook". Curious, I searched and found a vendor on eBay that sells these magazines as well as a wealth of other sewing and craft books from Japan. The styles seem more conservative and demure than those in the German Burda magazines, but I'm intrigued --- I may need to order a copy soon.



The tricky part about Japanese sewing patterns is that often, full-size patterns are not included --- only schematics with measurements from which you draft your own patterns. When you see those schematics for the first time, they look intimidating, but if you know how to draft patterns, they make sense --- definitely a challenge!

White Shirts

I love white shirts. The good ones are crisp, clean-lined and stylish --- they pull an outfit together with ease. One of my favorite brands is Anne Fontaine, a designer who got her start focusing solely on white shirts. Now she's expanded to black, knits and jackets, but the unique details on her white shirts (as well as the quality of the fabrics) really make them stand out. Her shirts come at a hefty price so I only have one, but I treasure it. Here it is with a knit vest over it --- love the double collar and the double cuffs.

The January 2008 issue of Burda magazine featured several cool patterns for white shirts. Here's one I've had my eye on --- the sleeve detail is special.

Image from www.burdafashion.com.

Here's a short piece from the WSJ titled, "The White Shirt: A Roving Quest for Perfection" about white shirts and how to choose a quality one. While the focus is on men's shirts, I think the same principles apply for women as well.

J. Crew and Their Inauguration Designs

J. Crew, which has been one of my faves since college, has a cool feature on their website about their inspiration for the inaugural outfits they designed for the First Family. Pretty cool --- it even made the New York Times.

It has been amazing to watch J. Crew evolve over the years from a mail-order catalog to the publicly traded entity that it is today. I've always loved their preppy, classic, clean-cut look --- I told someone recently that I'll be wearing J. Crew when I'm 80, and that I'll bet they'll have a "golden age" line of clothing and accessories by then!

I started out as a big fan of their colorful rugby shirts, which I wore with everything from jeans to miniskirts. These days, it seems that I have at least one J. Crew piece as part of my outfit every day. Their perfect fit tees really do fit well, and the kinds of fabrics they are able to source for their jackets and skirts are just exquisite.

Here's a photo of the recently opened J. Crew Collection store on Madison Avenue in NYC, which we took on our NY trip. The Collection features limited edition designs and gorgeous fabrics and details. It was definitely a ritzy space!

Presidential Inauguration and Michelle Obama's Style

Yesterday's presidential inauguration was certainly an historic event. President Obama's message of hope in the midst of dark times resonated with me --- a very strong and inspiring speech delivered during a time of need.

On a lighter note, here's a short clip from the NY Times that highlights Michelle Obama's unique and very individual style, showcased during the past few days of inaugural festivities. While some have compared her to Jackie O, I think Michelle's style is much more down to earth and "real" --- a mix of designer and J.Crew. Her inaugural ball gown was beautiful as well, and it was great to see that she chose a design from a young, up and coming designer named Jason Wu rather than a more established name.

Wrap Top

I have this beautiful stretch silk in my stash that I've been wanting to use, and finally decided to make it into a simple wrap top. The pattern is from the January 2008 issue of Burda magazine and is definitely a winner. I made a tester using an inexpensive black rib knit fabric, and I love it. The fit of Burda patterns, as always, is right-on, and there is something about the combination of the style and fit that makes it look expensive.



Thanks to all of the wonderful reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review, I was able to incorporate some key changes to the pattern that worked well.

1. Lengthened the ties by 6 inches, which was necessary to be able to tie in the front.
2. Shortened the armholes and sleeve cap by 0.5 inch for a petite fit.
3. Shortened the sleeves by 4 inches to accommodate my petite-length arms and create a three-quarter length sleeve.
4. Lengthened the hem by 0.75 inch so the top would end at high hip. I accomplished this by narrowing the hem to 0.5 inch (I added the required 1.25 inch hem to the pattern pieces, but I saw that it would be too short). I was surprised by this one, as typically I don't lengthen anything.



Now that I've refined the pattern, I'm ready to move on to the beautiful silk!

WSJ Article - Vogue Documentary "The September Issue"

Vogue Documentary "The September Issue" Seeks to Capture Glamour, Toil introduces us to the world of Anna Wintour and the making of the September issue of Vogue magazine. The September issue of Vogue covers the fashions for the fall season, and has traditionally been the most comprehensive issue of the year. I have collected the September issues of Vogue magazine for years, and am always completely amazed at how large that issue is --- at various times, it has been called a doorstop and a weapon. I think the ads outnumber the actual editorial and photographic content of the magazine, but most of them are beautiful in their own right, so they don't distract from the pleasure of absorbing every page.

The film debuted at the Sundance Film Festival last Friday --- I hope it becomes available for us to see soon!

A Retro Fashion Book by Dior

We wandered into Books, Inc. in San Francisco last week, where I found a very unique little book titled, "The Little Dictionary of Fashion" by Christian Dior. Originally published in 1954, the book is organized alphabetically, and includes Dior's commentary on everything from color and fit to velvet and ermine.



The photos and sketches of Dior's designs are amazing, and the content is very interesting from a fashion history perspective. I love the entry for "Gloves", which begins, "In town you cannot be dressed without gloves any more than you can be dressed without a hat." It is hard to believe that once upon a time, people actually wore hats and gloves when going out!

Dior's philosophy of style is also interesting to read, as his advice is surprisingly practical and down to earth. He recommends buying the best quality you can afford and choosing basic colors such as black or navy blue to ensure longevity for the garments. He includes advice for women of all sizes, including petite, plus, tall and thin. Overall, I think it is a fun little book that gives a glimpse into another fashion era --- great for an afternoon read.

Back from San Francisco

We have had amazing weather here in the SF Bay Area --- 70 degrees in SF in January was unbelievable! I wasn't able to work on any projects, but I did find some cool places for future visits. I checked out Britex, but nothing that was reasonably priced caught my eye --- a $150 per yard Missoni silk charmeuse did, but I couldn't quite get myself to go there.

One of the things I love about wandering around a city is stumbling upon something pleasantly unexpected. We decided to pop into the city hall building, which is a gorgeous domed structure. Upon entering, we heard the most beautiful singing, and learned that the SF boys and girls choirs were giving a free performance there as a send-off to the presidential inauguration --- they had been selected to perform next week in Washington DC! They were amazing, and it is so cool that two local groups were selected to participate in the inauguration festivities.



We found a wonderful Italian restaurant called Venticello in the Nob Hill area. It is rustic and cozy, and the food was very good. My favorite was the beet and arugula salad, which had thinly sliced beets and arugula with a caper dressing. The pastas and risotto were excellent as well.



We also spent an evening in the Hayes Valley neighborhood, which is near the civic center area. Such a cute neighborhood! The main drag is Hayes St., and there are plenty of restaurants, cafes, and boutiques lined up along the street. We had dinner at Suppenkuche, a german restaurant that had really good food and a happening atmosphere. They really tried to promote the "in a rustic cabin in the middle of the Black Forest" feel with unfinished pine tables, communal seating and green trees painted on the walls. We arrived around 5:30 pm so it was pretty empty, but within 30 minutes, the entire place was packed and very loud. As you can imagine, the beer selection was outstanding, but I was really impressed with the quality of the food. My sauerbraten (braised beef) was tender and delicious, and the accompanying spaetzle and red cabbage were perfect counterpoints to the beef. Mark's rolled chicken dish was flavorful as well (although he didn't really care for the side of brussel sprouts). The portions were huge, so there was no dessert!

Also in Hayes Valley was this cute candy store called Miette Confiserie. I've been to Miette Patisserie in the Ferry Building in SF, but this was a much larger store with a great retro candy store feel. In addition to their delectable cupcakes in the main case, the store was filled with huge jars of unique candies from various parts of the world. The red and white striped bags were the best. Loved it!



We missed a bunch of stores, including a sewing studio called Stitch Lounge and the Urban Knitting Studio. I see another trip in our future!

A Sea of Suits

I'm staying in SF this week for work, and the conference I'm attending can best be described as "a sea of suits". I'll have to take a photo and post it, because words just can't adequately describe the scene --- dark suits moving up staircases en masse; pinstriped suits huddled in a corner of the lobby, gazes turned to a laptop; solid suits lined up against the hotel perimeter, electronic devices in hand or pressed against one ear; and an occasional tan suit that pops out in the crowd. California casual is nowhere to be found --- I think the entire NY financial community has descended upon SF and tossed out the note that California requires a more casual and creative approach to businesswear. Unfortunately, I guess this is the way of the world. In fact, with so many suits, I suspect many Californians have turned into NYers for the week.

Marimekko Fabrics

I love Marimekko fabrics. The vibrant colors, bold prints, inspiration from nature --- all work so well together. It is hard to believe they have been in business since 1951 and that many of their prints are from the 1950's and 1960's. Their look remains fresh and modern even today.

Here are some images from the Spring 2009 collection (all images from www.marimekko.fi).




FinnStyle is having a Marimekko sale through January 16 --- great time to check it out.

Sparkly Tweedy Pencil Skirt

My three yards of sparkly tweedy fabric from Emma One Sock were fashioned into three unique pieces: jacket, capelet and this pencil skirt.



The skirt pattern is from the January 2008 issue of Burda magazine and is a simple paneled pencil skirt. It sits at the waist and has a center back zipper and hook closure. Instead of the slit in the back, I made an inverted pleat and eliminated the welt pockets in the back (I don't need the extra bulk). Otherwise, I followed the magazine's design. I topstitched the vertical seams for additional definition, but it isn't necessary --- I think the decision would depend on fabric choice.

I underlined the skirt with silk organza and lined it with a black Ambiance rayon (sometimes known as Bemberg rayon). I like using this lining for skirts and pants because it feels great against the skin and is durable. It doesn't have the cheap feel of an acetate lining fabric. I save my silk charmeuse fabrics for jackets and coats! I also used a waistband stabilizer, which is a relatively stiff piece that is the width of the finished waistband and is used in place of interfacing (goes inside the waistband casing). This was a good choice for this project because the skirt sits at the natural waist and the stabilizer provides a nice snug fit.

I think the fit is great and am definitely planning to make this skirt in other fabrics. Here is the line drawing and a back view.

Sparkly Tweedy Capelet - finished!

This Sparkly Tweedy Capelet was definitely a quick project! Using fusible interfacing rather than hand-sewing hair canvas made it go very quickly, with nice results.







Some time-saving techniques I used:

1. Fusible interfacing: as with all interfacings, it is important to do a test swatch to make sure your interfacing/fabric combination is appropriate. I find that with fusibles, this test is very important, as different fusibles can dramatically alter the fabric feel and drape. When I test fusibles, I fuse a square of interfacing onto a test scrap of fabric and check the combination for how it feels in my hand. Does my fabric become stiff? Is the original drape of the fabric maintained? Does the fusible provide enough stability to the fabric?

2. Machine-stitched the lining to the capelet: instead of hand-stitching, I machine-stitched the lining to the hem, leaving the sides with the front facings open to turn it inside-out after stitching. I only hand-stitched the lining hem at the facings.

3. Snaps instead of buttonholes: I used snaps for the front closure and sewed the buttons on top of the snaps.

Overall, this was a really cute pattern and a great way to economically stretch the three yards of sparkly tweedy fabric into three separate garments!

First Lady Fashion Quiz

Just for fun, here's a First Lady Fashion Quiz from the NY Times. It tests your knowledge of inaugural gowns worn by past first ladies and their designers. Just a warning --- it is a tough quiz!

If you want to know more about the first ladies, here's a cool website with biographies of each --- I never knew there was so much information about them!

Tough Times Continue

Doom and gloom is in the air. Ads on TV and print seem to have jumped on the recession bandwagon, with many taking a "tough times" angle to their pitches. Job cuts and restructuring announcements dominate newspaper headlines, and "how to save money" segments on local news programs appear more frequently these days. My employer just announced its second restructuring in a year, so tough times are definitely hitting closer to home.

Given the current environment, it is no wonder that beloved yarn shops are falling on hard times. While it seems that Artfibers will just be moving to a different location rather than shutting down altogether (wonderful news!), other shops are not as fortunate. While there are a myriad of reasons for closing down any business, it is hard to imagine that economics played no part in the decisions.

When I was in NY recently, I literally stumbled upon a shop called Yarn Connection on Madison and 30-something (I think). It was a tiny second-floor shop, just like Artfibers, so I stopped in to check it out. I was shocked to find out that they were having a "going out of business" sale, with their doors closing this month. The shop had been in business for over 10 years, maybe closer to 15, so there were quite a few long-term customers there who clearly had strong ties to the staff as well as to the shop. It really was a shame to see a clearly beloved shop close down.

Japanese Puzzle Quilt

Christmas has come and gone --- got the message --- but I wanted to highlight the Japanese Puzzle Quilt wall hanging that is behind the tree. I made it several years ago after eyeing the design in a quilt shop in Berkeley. At the time, my grandmother gave me a stash of kasuri fabrics from Japan --- gorgeous dyed wovens that are quite popular here. Interestingly, kasuri fabrics can be pretty pricey and valuable these days, but in the past, kasuri clothing was worn in the countryside as a durable and less expensive alternative to other fabrics. One reason for the increase in value is that the kasuri weaving method requires precise skill, and the number of artisans who are able to make this fabric has diminished --- it is truly a dying art.

Has Knitting Become Too Upscale?

When I was getting my hair cut recently, a few of the stylists noticed the sweater I was wearing, and we began a discussion about knitting. It turns out these women were originally from Europe and had been knitting and crocheting for many years. But they said they haven't been working on as many projects these days because the cost of yarn is so high, and commented on how the local yarn shops carry very high-end and expensive yarns, and that knitting wasn't an affordable activity anymore.

While there are less expensive yarns available, I began to wonder whether the current abundance of specialty fibers and even the popularity of fiber arts have somehow discouraged those who have pursued these activities for many years. Have knitters become obsessed with the exotic and the rarefied? How can acrylic compete with qiviut, the underwool of a rare arctic musk ox?

Perhaps it is the variety that is now available --- hand dyes, unique fibers and textures, sustainable fibers --- that commands higher prices and the real estate of local yarn shops. In the last few years, some yarns have become elevated to "it bag" status and were touted as THE yarn to own and knit. It almost feels like clothes shopping, the difference between shopping at Macy's and shopping at the Chanel boutique.

I think the stylists had a point, but everyone can choose to make knitting as expensive as they want it to be. And personally, I am really grateful to have so many choices!

Sparkly Tweedy Capelet

I just began a new sewing project yesterday using the the same fabric I used for the Sparkly Tweedy Jacket. It is a very cute capelet from the September 2007 issue of Burda Magazine.

Image from www.burdafashion.com.

After I made the Sparkly Tweedy Jacket and a matching pencil skirt, I still had some additional yardage, so I managed to cobble together enough for this little capelet. Talk about economical -- I've managed to stretch three garments out of three yards of that sparkly tweedy fabric! It is a fairly easy pattern, with the most challenging part being the collar and lapels. I decided to go easy and fast on this one, so I bypassed the muslin and used a fusible interfacing instead of hand-stitching hair canvas. I've already finished sewing the main body pieces, and a preliminary fit looks good. Now on to the collar and facings!

Nostalgia and Super Yarn Mart

There's something about saying goodbye to the old year and ringing in the new one that brings on a wave of nostalgia for me. This year, it was Super Yarn Mart.

I grew up in southern California, and there was a wonderful Super Yarn Mart store near my house. As the name implies, it was a spacious store with racks and racks of yarn in every color imaginable. I think all of the yarns were acrylics (this was in the early late '70s and early '80s), well before the current trend toward natural and sustainable fibers. I still remember the older ladies who worked there, congregated around the registers, and of course the cool pink shopping bags that held each purchase were the best.

When I was around 11, I really wanted to make a scarf to send to my grandmother. I knew how to crochet, but I really wanted to knit the scarf, so I found a "Learn to Knit" leaflet, a pair of aqua-colored plastic needles and a navy blue acrylic yarn at Super Yarn Mart. I wish I could find that leaflet --- if I remember correctly, it had some classic '70s-styled photos and designs (think ponchos with heavy fringe). I managed to figure out how to do the knit stitch, but could not figure out how to purl. So I ended up managing a garter stitch scarf that was about 2 feet in length --- too short for a scarf, so I crocheted rows of shell stitch on either end to add length. It was a weird-looking scarf, but I sent it anyway, and she loved it.

A couple of years later, I finally learned how to knit correctly from a Japanese lady who gave lessons in Little Tokyo (J-town in LA). As a result, I knit continental style and am able to read charted patterns (Japanese patterns are charted) more easily than line-written instructions. To this day, I find line-written instructions really tedious!

From then on, Super Yarn Mart became my go-to yarn shop. The colors were incredible, so vibrant, and with so many choices it was easy to imagine different color combinations. One of my last Super Yarn Mart projects was a granny square afghan, which I made the summer before I left for college. I wanted my dorm room to be done in mauve and dusty rose, so I chose those colors for the afghan --- it turned out beautifully. Soon after, I heard that our Super Yarn Mart closed. When I went home recently, I saw that there is now a discount clothing store in that wonderfully large space.

Random NY Images

We did a lot of walking during our time in NY, so we had plenty of opportunities to take some shots. Here are just a few.


Mineral rocks from the Museum of Natural History


View of the Apple Store on Fifth Avenue --- there was actually a line to enter that store!


Cool knit dress with a tulle underskirt and snowflake patches in the Saks Fifth Avenue window


Coat with asymmetric closure and flattering neckline that caught my eye at Takashimaya --- the sweater next to it is cool too


Coats from the Issey Miyake window --- love the necklines

Happy 2009!

We made it back last night from our mini trip to NYC, a day late but safely home. Our flight from NY was diverted to LaCrosse, Wisconsin after Minneapolis airport was closed due to weather (freezing fog --- what is that?!?) We sat in that plane for 5 hours, which was an ugly experience (let's just say that when they finally brought the stairs to let us off the plane so we could cross the icy tarmac in blowing snow to use the facilities at the tiny airport, I was eternally grateful). We finally made it to Minneapolis, but missed our connection, so we were stranded overnight. I could not believe how cold it was --- below zero, which is extreme cold for this California girl! We left Minneapolis for Portland (no seats on direct flights to SF), and then on to SF. A two-day ordeal to return home from NYC finally ended last night. Whew. The best part? It all ended in 2008, so 2009 is definitely a fresh start!

LaCrosse, WI from the airplane


A Minneapolis, MN sunrise


View of Columbus Circle from the Time Warner building


Fifth Avenue


View from Takashimaya department store