Saturday, February 27, 2010

High-Waisted Skirt

I've had my eye on this high-waisted skirt pattern for quite some time. It is from the January 2009 issue of Burda and there have been a number of inspiring, beautifully crafted versions on Pattern Review.

Image from here.

Since I recently finished a pair of high-waisted trousers, I decided to continue the theme. I'm glad I did, because the style and fit are exceptional.



I used the same wool suiting as the high-waisted trousers and lined the skirt with purple bemberg rayon. The only pattern alterations I made were to the length --- decreased the waistband by about 1/4 inch and the skirt length by about 2 inches.

I made a few design and construction changes that I think worked well. Because of the high-waist styling, the waistband needs additional support and stability so it won't "crumple" when worn. A while back, I purchased some fusible hair canvas for tailoring, and decided to use that for the waistband. I like the stiffness it gave to the waistband, and fusing was a lot easier than sewing it in.

The waistband has a cool corset style, so there are multiple panels that are shaped to achieve a fitted look. I wanted to highlight the vertical lines, so I thought it would be interesting to insert a contrast fabric. I chose some silk twill I had in my stash --- lavender with red dots.



I used a fusible interfacing to stabilize the silk and cut 1-inch strips that I sewed to each panel, making sure about 1/4 inch of the silk remained visible on the outside. I then topstitched on both sides of the silk. In addition to adding interest to the waistband, this process served to further stiffen the waistband and actually seemed to act like a very light boning. The photo below shows how the waistband seam looks on the inside --- you can see the hair canvas and the interfaced silk that has been sewn to each panel and topstitched.





I used The Sewing Lawyer's belt loop technique (again!), which is really a great technique. They would have been perfect except for one small episode that involved a furry little feline. Just as I was about to sew on the second belt loop to the back, I got distracted by Simon sitting by my sewing machine. It was so cute that I dropped my fabric and ran off to get the camera. After a lengthy photo shoot, Simon tired of it all and walked away, so I went back to sewing the loop. Unfortunately, I got turned around and sewed it to the wrong side of the seam line! Ugh! My consolation is this photo of my little sewing assistant --- judging from his expression, I don't think he has a long future as a sewing cat!



So here's the back with the belt loops.



I sewed an invisible zipper along the back and added a little tab with a snap to the inside for a secure fit at the top.



Here's a photo of the skirt without the belt.



Overall I'm happy with the result!

10 comments:

Digs said...

It looks beautiful, dare I say, even Fabulous! Now we want to see the skirt on you, please!!!

Cindy said...

Your sewing skills are amazing. The tailoring is unbelieveable! Love the skirt...to say the least.

Christina said...

Oooh, I like that little tab + snap combination so much better than a hook + eye!

Shannon said...

I love the little peaks of silk at the waist - it adds such a nice touch!

P.S. Simon is such a cutie!

Patty said...

That skirt is fabulous! Thanks for the detailed post, and the pic of the snap closure. I hate sewing in hooks and eyes, so I'll plan to use your idea next time :-)

JoanneM said...

Absolutely beautiful. I am intrigued by the canvas as every review I have read says boning. I LOVE your idea. A great skirt!!!!!

Vicki said...

That's a lovely version! Reallym really nice.

gwensews said...

Beautiful skirt! Totally. Have fun wearing that.

Annicka J. said...

Oh I love this! I've been lurking on your blog for awhile and I always adore how clean and lovely your construction is! This skirt is fabulous!

woolanthropy said...

Gorgeous! Your attention to detail is always impeccable and it shows in your work. I love the polka dot detailing and the lining. It really gives the skirt subtle flair and feel good wear (I really didn't intend that to rhyme). Absolutely love it.