I can't believe how long ago I started the Pattern Magic Volume 2 Quick Turn Dress, but I finally finished a wearable version!
Here are some photos of the original pattern and muslin work. I started with my personal moulage and manipulated the pattern based on the instructions in the Pattern Magic Volume 2 book. The front bodice section, shown below, required quite a bit of fullness to accommodate the "quick turn" design, so there was a significant amount of slashing and spreading. The darts were transferred to the seam line and to fullness.
The muslin turned out well, especially the front bodice. Honestly, as I was doing the pattern work, I didn't think it would work out. but, like magic, it did. The muslin was snug at the waist and hip, so I took out about 0.5 inches along each side seam.
The back is one piece shaped with internal darts. The front has four pieces: the bodice top, the bodice bottom (curved section), and two front skirt pieces. The seamline for the front of the skirt is offset, so instead of adding a slit to the back, as the book recommended, I moved it to the front. I also moved the zipper from the recommended CB seam to the side. Both changes worked out well. The "quick turn" piece is essentially a long rectangle that can be sewn into the front skirt seamline and left free-hanging from the waist to the neckline. I chose to keep it as a free-hanging piece from hem to neckline, with just two snaps at the waistline.
For the finished dress, I used a Japanese quilting cotton and bias strips of scrap silk doupioni as an accent. Because the quilting cotton has a tendency to "stick", I lined the dress with scrap Bemberg rayon --- in purple!
There is a slit in the front bodice to accommodate the "quick turn" piece. I made a rather long bound buttonhole using the silk doupioni, which looks really nice. I also found that the "quick turn" piece was longer than I wanted once I threaded it through the buttonhole. But instead of cutting it and re-doing the bias binding, I decided to fold it up and add three small snaps to secure it. This created a wonderful fullness which is reminiscent of a tied Japanese obi.
Overall, I'm really pleased with this dress. The pattern work was challenging but not impossible, especially if you go step-by-step and think through what you are doing and why you are doing it. I made a number of mistakes throughout this process, but it's all a learning experience. Next time, I will:
1. Put the bound buttonhole on the correct side of the bodice. I accidentally placed it on the opposite side, which forced me to center the "quick turn" piece rather than place it offset to one side.
2. Play with different skirt styles and fabric types. I think the bodice design is really beautiful and could look amazing in a variety of fabrics and styles. I think more waist definition might look nice as well. Maybe a belt?
3. Be careful with sewing the bias binding --- I didn't do a very clean job, especially around the corners.
4. Be careful with the direction of the prints. Upon closer inspection, I think the print is upside down on the "quick turn" piece!
I'm looking forward to tackling another project in this book!
1 hour ago