Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Pattern Magic: Musubu B Style

I think I'm done with all things nautical for a while now. After working with four yards of nautical stripe fabric that turned into three projects and this tiny little pile of scraps --- plus two unused patch pockets --- I'm ready to move on to another challenge!

I love most of the designs in the two Pattern Magic books that I have in my library. I made the Quick Turn Dress using a design in Volume 2, which I think turned out well. From the first book, I tried the "Musubu B" style, which is this one.

I like dramatic details --- and this bow, which is front and center, certainly makes a statement!

The pattern work ended up being much easier than the Quick Turn style. The style features two loops that are tied together to form a bow at CF. One loop extends out of the front pattern piece, with the loop cut on a LW fold (fold is perpendicular to selvage) so the bodice ends up being cut on the bias. The second loop is created by a separate collar piece, with the loop cut on the fold. The second loop is slightly shorter than the first loop.

I started with my moulage front and made the following pattern changes:
1. Move the bodice darts to the armhole. For my sample, I only moved the shoulder dart and left the internal dart at the waist.
2. Draw a line at the bust point that is perpendicular to CF. Draw a parallel line that is 1 cm above this line. From this point and above, draw a line that is 2 cm in from CF (decrease the bodice width) and cut out.
3. From the cut out point, measure up 5 cm and mark. This will be the start of the neckline shaping. Draw a straight line from this mark up to the neck/shoulder intersection. To create a curved neckline, measure in 0.5 cm at the midpoint of the line and draw a concave curve. Measure this distance and record, as it will be needed for the collar piece.
4. Going back to the 5 cm edge at CF, divide this distance into thirds and mark. These marks will be used as a guide for the three dart transfers that will be needed. For the first dart transfer, measure in 2 cm from the shoulder/armhole edge and draw a curved line down. For the second dart transfer, draw a slightly curved line from the top of the armhole dart. For the third dart transfer, draw a straight line from the bust point to the bottom of the 5 cm edge.

From the 5 cm edge, cut each dart transfer line to but not through the opposite edge. Close the original darts. Place the bodice piece on a separate piece of paper and spread the cut pieces out evenly until the distance from cut edge to edge is 16 cm. Tape the cut pattern to the paper underneath to secure.

5. To create the tie extension, measure out two parallel lines that are at right angles to the top and bottom of the top part of the bodice. Each line should measure 32 cm. Connect the lines. From each parallel line, mark out 3 cm and draw new lines that extend back to the bodice from this new point down to 0. This creates a curved look for the tie. Mark the grainline on the tie (parallel to the lines that are extending out from the bodice) and mark the perpendicular line as a fold line (fabric will be cut on the fold here to create a loop).

6. From the bust point line and below, add a placket piece for the closure (I used a 1.5 in piece).

Using my back moulage:
1. Drop down 0.5 cm from CB/neckline and mark. From the neckline/shoulder edge, measure out 2 cm (away from CB) as a straight line (do not follow the shoulder line) and mark. This will be the new neckline/shoulder edge point. Draw a line connecting these two marks to create a new neckline. Measure this distance for the collar. True up the shoulder line.
2. I converted the two darts in my moulage into a princess seam line by connecting the darts and cutting out.

For the separate collar loop:
1. Fold the pattern paper in half so the fold extends along the top.
2. With the fold at the top, draw a LW line down 6 cm and mark the line as CB. From this line, draw two parallel lines at right angles that extend the same length as the back neckline (measured). Mark. Continue extending the two parallel lines to correspond with the length of the front neckline (measured). Mark. Continue extending the lines until the piece measures 43 cm total from the first mark. Draw a perpendicular line, extending down by 5 cm. From this point, draw a line that extends back to the first mark. Curve this line slightly by measuring in 0.5 cm at the midpoint of the line and drawing a concave curve that smooths into the first mark.
3. The far line (opposite from the CB line) will be cut on the fold, with the grainline perpendicular to that line.
4. Cut the pattern and unfold.

Here are images of the finished pattern pieces.




And here is the muslin. I ran out of regular muslin so I dug up this old batik fabric from my stash. It is kind of difficult to see the bow detail clearly with the print. My bow is a bit loose as well --- need to practice that!

Here's the front untied so you can see the two loops.

I'm not sure how I'll use this style --- perhaps a dress would be cute.


  1. I love the tie front. I made one recently but love your version. More dramatic! Thanks for showing your pattern pieces.

  2. I'm gasping! The fabric is so beautiful and I share your fondness for Japanese patterns.

  3. That is such an interesting pattern, I love it!

  4. Thank you for the specific directions. I will study them!
    I love this top. Can't wait to see the final top

  5. I've been dying to do some of those Pattern Magic designs - they are so totally fabulous...thanks for showing all the steps.

  6. Terrific blouse, and the pattern drafting in those books look so very interesting!

  7. This is a good post. I'm happy to read it. Thanks for sharing.