Well, as I predicted, the Back Pleat Coat/Dress missed the "spring coat" season, so it will have to wait until fall for its debut. I'm too slow!
I have mixed emotions about this garment. The double face fabric is beautiful --- more lustrous in person than in a photo --- and the fit and style are perfect. As anyone who sews can understand, it is the details that can make or break a garment. In this case, I had to make a number of fixes as a result of the fabric's tendency to ravel, and my eyes keep fixating on those spots. It isn't perfect (is anything perfect in this world?), but I'll get over it. Big picture --- it is a good coat.
I love the military styling of this pattern from the September 2006 issue of Burda. For the collar, I used hair canvas interfacing and pad-stitched it by hand. I think this process helped to add a really nice shape to the collar, which is key for this style.
The pocket flaps on the front are faux pockets. The placement of those pockets didn't work for me --- I couldn't imagine using them --- so I made them faux and added side seam pockets, which I just love.
The back has a cool belt detail, which is accentuated by the buttons. The sleeves have faux plackets as well. It is all purely decorative, but I like it.
The back features an inverted pleat at CB and two deep pleats on either side. When I first started this project, I was hesitant about adding bulk in the back with those pleats, but now that I look at the finished garment, it just wouldn't be the same without those pleats. I chose to keep them unpressed at this point, but perhaps a press along the hem is needed.
Here's the shot of the back pleats. For the inverted panel, I used the reverse of the fabric for a peek-a-boo effect. Hmm --- needs a bit of pressing.
Simon doing a QC check via cat-scan:
For this garment, I used a double face cotton fabric for the garment and china silk for the lining. I used hair canvas as the interfacing for the collar and stand and used satin organza as the interfacing for the fronts, lapels and back neck stay. I used a fusible tricot interfacing for the hems. All of the seams on the inside of the coat are finished with either overlock stitch or a Hong Kong finish using bias strips of the china silk lining fabric. The keyhole buttonholes are machine-done.
Overall, I think this is a pretty nice coat/dress that is perfect for days when I want to sashay around town. Yes, sashay --- the combination of those back pleats and side pockets scream "sashay"!
Tongue in Chic
3 hours ago