All was well, until I reached the point where I sewed the shoulders and side seams, tried it on and noticed a huge amount of volume in the back due to the inverted pleat down CB. The pattern calls for a substantial pleat --- nearly 7 inches in width total --- and even though it was basted closed, I could tell it would be way too much volume once it was opened. In addition, my fabric is more drapey than crisp, so the pleat would be less defined (and therefore more apt to spread). After spending a moment wishing I had made a muslin, I decided to move forward with a quick fix. I decided to cut away the pleat and sew the CB seam closed. The fit is much better --- a more streamlined look.
Good save!
ReplyDeleteYou were lucky to redeem your trench dress. I always look forward to seeing your finished products.
ReplyDeleteI have made that pattern as a trench - I had the same problem as you - the centre back ease pleat is huge and it made me look huge with all the extra ease it added to the waist! I sewed the ease pleat down to the waist and then released it - I was using a heavy cotton twill, so I knew the pleat would hold. Now I have a slightly different issue - because of all the extra fabric the coat is actually quite heavy! Still, lots of room to move! Best of luck with the rest of the dress ...
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