Trench Dress: Needed a Muslin

I'm usually very good about making a muslin to check the fit, style, etc. For the Trench Dress, I took a shortcut by just using my moulage to check the key measurements and then dove right into the fashion fabric.

All was well, until I reached the point where I sewed the shoulders and side seams, tried it on and noticed a huge amount of volume in the back due to the inverted pleat down CB. The pattern calls for a substantial pleat --- nearly 7 inches in width total --- and even though it was basted closed, I could tell it would be way too much volume once it was opened. In addition, my fabric is more drapey than crisp, so the pleat would be less defined (and therefore more apt to spread). After spending a moment wishing I had made a muslin, I decided to move forward with a quick fix. I decided to cut away the pleat and sew the CB seam closed. The fit is much better --- a more streamlined look.

Signe Chanel Documentary Series --- Wow!

The five-part Signe Chanel documentary series was made in 2005 --- ages ago! --- so I'm sure most fashion-focused people have seen it already, but I just caught it last night on the Sundance Channel. Wow! I loved the "inside look" at how the 2004/2005 fall/winter couture collection developed from sketches to final runway show. The personalities, the little workroom dramas and the mounting anxiety that you could actually feel as the runway show neared --- not to mention the garment construction scenes --- really made this a must-see for me. I especially loved the braid maker --- she was a hoot! It was amazing to see how she made the braid/trim for the iconic Chanel jacket --- she unraveled the fabric used for the jacket (by hand --- no machines here) and re-wove them into a braid using a hand-crafted loom her brother made for her years ago. I was inspired.

Carolina at New York Fashion Week

I can't get over this jacket. I love it. It's from Carolina Herrera's Fall 2011 collection. The capelet neckline and color are amazing.

Image from here.

Trench Dress: A Flash of Blue

Happy Valentine's Day!

Thank you for your thoughts on the J. Crew skirt. I think I will definitely attempt a slightly longer version using either the BurdaStyle pattern or the Patrones one (thanks Shelagh and Gail!) as a starting point or just drafting one from my moulage. I'm motivated!

But first, I need to finish the Trench Dress I started at the beginning of this year. I made good progress this weekend. The welt pockets are interesting because they are incorporated into the darts in the front of the dress. Here are the line drawings:

Image from here.

For fun, I used a blue china silk for the pockets --- a flash of blue! The dress will be lined with this same fabric, which I think will jazz up the gray/black plaid.

J. Crew Skirt Diversion

The Faux Fur Coat has long been completed --- and I need to get back to my Trench Dress, which has been languishing --- all cut out and ready to be sewn. But, as often happens, diversions occur. And today, I had one of those moments at the J. Crew store. I saw an interesting skirt --- I think they call it a lantern shape --- that completely transformed when I tried it on. Here's a close up:

Image from here.

On the hanger, I thought the pleating looked interesting and was curious to see how the pleats would look on a live body. When I tried it on, I absolutely loved it. The skirt transformed into a very cute and surprisingly flattering bubble shape.

Image from here.

I was torn. I really wanted to purchase it, but there were a couple of reasons why I walked out without it:

1. Thoughts of "I can make it!" entered my head and prevented me from shelling out nearly 90 bucks for a cotton skirt.

2. It pains me to say this, but it's kind of short for a 40-year-old...

I'm wondering if the skirt could work in a slightly longer length --- maybe to just above the knee? If so, I think I could draft the pattern for this one. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

WSJ: Bespoke Suits

If you're interested in tailoring, here's an interesting article in the WSJ about getting a bespoke suit that fits well. It's all about the shoulders --- check the space between the shoulders and the location of the seam joining the shoulder and the sleeve.