I'm usually very good about making a muslin to check the fit, style, etc. For the Trench Dress, I took a shortcut by just using my moulage to check the key measurements and then dove right into the fashion fabric.
All was well, until I reached the point where I sewed the shoulders and side seams, tried it on and noticed a huge amount of volume in the back due to the inverted pleat down CB. The pattern calls for a substantial pleat --- nearly 7 inches in width total --- and even though it was basted closed, I could tell it would be way too much volume once it was opened. In addition, my fabric is more drapey than crisp, so the pleat would be less defined (and therefore more apt to spread). After spending a moment wishing I had made a muslin, I decided to move forward with a quick fix. I decided to cut away the pleat and sew the CB seam closed. The fit is much better --- a more streamlined look.
New Look 6035 Redux – The Graphic Floral Edition
10 hours ago