The Bustle Skirt -- Finished!

The bustle skirt is finished! When I posted the two muslins, I was on the fence about even pursuing the concept. Your comments helped me to look at the details in various ways -- Rebecca's comment about it being a "mullet skirt" was too funny! -- and from there, I was able to refine them.

Of course, I had to choose black wool crepe (modeled with a black top!), so the photos aren't great, but I think the details are still visible.

Pattern Work
I started with BurdaStyle's pegged skirt pattern from August 2012 (#111), which fits me really well -- I'm keeping it as a master pattern for all of my pencil skirts. I wanted a raised waist, so I referenced my pattern drafting book, Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's Clothing by Suzy Furrer, to draft a waist extension of 1.5 inches above the natural waist. To accommodate the flared bustle piece, I converted the back waist darts into seam lines (sides of the bustle piece will be sewn into the seams) and drafted a curved back waist band (to accommodate the top of the bustle piece). I kept the CB seam intact, but re-drafted the back vent to be angled rather than straight. For the bustle, I drafted a flared piece and rounded the hem. The waist facings extend 1 inch below the natural waist.

Fabric and Construction
The main fabric is a black wool crepe picked up on Britex's remnant floor. I chose it because I wanted a drapey fabric for the bustle. I decided to add a bias trim of satin fabric to the bustle's hem as an accent. The skirt is underlined with silk organza and lined with Bemberg rayon. The waist has hair canvas interfacing and fusible interfacing. The side zipper is invisible.

Construction was straightforward. I hand-basted the silk organza to each piece and added fusible interfacing to the waist areas. I also added stay tape to the seam joining the bustle to the skirt and to the top waist.

With the raised waist, I wanted to try an interesting facing technique detailed in Lynda Maynard's The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques. This is a fabulous reference book that features, step by step, a variety of techniques that really elevate a sewn garment. For my facings, I channel-stitched hair canvas and added silk organza "pockets" for the rigilene boning used to structure the raised waist. It is a great technique that highlights the importance of a garment's inner construction.

I faced the hem (realized too late that the skirt was a bit on the short side, so I needed the extra length). I think it worked out well -- I hand-hemmed to the lining, thereby fully enclosing the lining.

Overall, I really love this skirt and am glad I moved forward with it, thanks to your feedback!